The OEMs spend thousands of hours on ECU calibration. It takes someone who really knows what they are doing a lot of time, including a lot of real world on the road testing, to sort this out properly. Same goes for off-the-shelf PowerCommander maps. Errors and unknowns and uncertainties and production tolerances won't matter so much. Without proper tuning the AFR (air/fuel ratio) spikes to 16:0:1 (with AIS clamped). If you look at the below power graph you can clearly see the issue. You can see the power get extremely jerky in the low and mid-range RPM. My experience has been that the "canned" tunes are somewhat rich, because tuning on the rich side is more forgiving. The graphs below represents a 2021 HONDA CBR1000RR-R SP1 with an aftermarket exhaust and air filter. So chances are, if you have a relatively common bike, with relatively minor common stuff done to it, and you are not racing or doing fuel-economy contests with it where the last little bit of fine tuning starts to matter, a "canned" off the shelf tune will be just fine without any further dyno optimizing. Camshafts, cam timing, big-bore, forced induction, major reconfigurations of intake runner geometry are real engine modifications that will require custom tuning.
And how fussy you are.īear in mind that a stock air filter or a K&N air filter or an Amsoil air filter or air filter won't make any meaningful difference, and a Hindle slip-on muffler or an Akrapovic slip-on muffler or a slip-on muffler also won't be worth a hill of beans. depends on how common your bike is (with whatever you've done to it).
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